Travelling like a local is far less expensive than taking tourist cabs. Plus, you get to see, feel, taste, smell and hear the country from a more authentic perspective.
This story is about the wicked sound experience we had on a bus from Arugam Bay to Udawalawe, Sri Lanka. We have included some sound snippets to share this enlightening with you. Needless to say, this post is for the music enthusiasts. So turn up the sound!
Britt and I have been using the local buses in Sri Lanka quiet frequently.
We met a bunch of people, had funny, awkward and entertaining experiences. Also, the “industry” of people that just go through buses to make some money (food sellers, merchandising guys, beggars) is unusual for westerners. Once we had an illusionist get on the bus in a traffic jam to perform some tricks and to ask the entertained but delayed passengers for money afterwards. He was really good! Instead of pulling the usual rabbit and flowers out of a hat, he did magic with baby clothes and baby bottles.
For this particular bus ride we were not prepared.
The local bus we had to take to get from Arugam Bay to Udawalawe departs daily at 6:30 a.m. So, we got up very early and managed to find some seats. Having a seat was wonderful because the bus ride took three hours, got super crowded at the next stop and most bus drivers drive insanely fast. Really, the buses are the heaviest things on the streets of Sri Lanka and every other vehicle just tries to make room. This literally gives space for the guys behind the steering wheel to race the routes. Not so comfortable for the passengers who must stand. So, having a seat was very good! While the buses race the streets, the passengers are entertained with local “disco folk” playing on the surprisingly strong sound system. So far every bus we were on had such an entertainment system. Sometimes it’s loud, sometimes it’s louder.
Here are some samples of what you get to hear:
or
Unfortunately, Britt and I could not find two seats next to each other.
A friendly smiling guy offered me a seat next to him. That’s how I met Gobi, a 32-year-old musician playing a traditional instrument called the nadasvaram. This is how a nadasvaram sounds:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oxUWxFJckTI
Actually, pretty nice! I was told it is mainly being used for temple ceremonies and weddings. Gobi was on the way to attend a gig at a wedding. And since I showed interest in his recordings of him playing this instrument, I was also given the chance to listen to some awesome pop songs he had on his mobile phone:
(theme from the movie Kadal, I think he was fan of A.R. Rahman)
(awesome clip!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
Since the bus songs were already louder than loud, Gobi just turned up the volume of the songs he was sharing with me.
He was super friendly, and I think I liked the songs but now imagine both (the bus songs and the songs from the Youtube links) being played simultaneously, with the volume of a live concert. You should really try it at home on your local computer.
Put yourself in the feeling you have when on a roller coaster (because that is how a Sri Lankan bus makes you feel during some turns)… a super crowded rollercoaster. And it all started at 6:30 a.m., in the morning and lasted for three hours!
By the way, this is how it sounds on busy bus terminals:
While I was more awake than ever in my entire grown up life, Britt fell asleep.